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» SIEM REAP

Angkor literally means Capital City or Holy City. Khmer refers to the dominant ethnic group in modern and ancient Cambodia. In its modern usage, ‘Angkor’ has come to refer to the capital city of the Khmer Empire that existed in the area of Cambodia between the 9th and 12th centuries CE, as well as to the empire itself. The temple ruins in the area of Siem Reap are the remnants of the Angkorian capitals, and represent the pinnacle of the ancient Khmer architecture, art and civilization.
At its height, the Age of Angkor was a time when the capital area contained more than a million people, when Khmer kings constructed vast waterworks and grand temples, and when Angkor’s military, economic and cultural dominance held sway over the area of modern Cambodia.

Angkor Wat

One of the true wonders of the world and built to honor the Hindu god Vishnu, Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious building which took some 50,000 artisans, workers and slaves, and nearly 40 years to complete. The temple forms a rectangular enclosure measuring 1,500 meters by 1,300 meters surrounded by a moat 200 meters wide. The main entrance to Angkor Wat is a paved avenue nearly half a kilometer long, ornamented with balustrades and fringed by artificial lakes. Inside the outer walls, the structure raises over three levels to a central core topped by five pineapple-shaped towers. Virtually every surface in the maze of chambers and courtyards is richly decorated with low- relief scenes of legends, carvings of nearly 2,000 Apsaras or celestial dancers.

Angkor Thom

Angkor Thom was built by Angkor’s greatest king Jayavarman VII (ruled 1181-1219). It is enclosed by a square wall 8 m high and 12 km in length and encircled by a moat 100 m wide. The city has five monumental gates, one each in the north, west and south walls and two in the east wall. The gates, which are 20m in height, are decorated to either side of the passageway with stone elephant trunks and crowned by four gargantuan facing the cardinal directions. In front of each gate stand giant statues of 54 gods and 54 demons. In the center of the walled enclosure are the city’s most important monuments, including the Bayon, The Baphuon, Vimean Akas, The royal Enclosure, Terrace of Elephants, Preah Phalilay, Tep Prornam and Prasat Suor Prat.

Bayon

Bayon Temple was built in late 12th and early 13th century by the king Jayavaman VII and dedicated to Buddhism. The Bayon is at the center of Angkor Thom (literally” Great City”), which forms the heart of the Angkor complex as it is today. The Bayon remains one the most enigmatic temples of the Angkor Group. Its elements juxtapose each other to create balance and harmony. Bayon is the place of stooped corridors, precipitous flights of stairs and most of all, a collection of 54 gothic towers decorated with over 200 smiling Gargantuan faces of Avalokiteshvara. A number of Cambodian people point out that the Khmer Empire was divided into 54 provinces at the time of the Bayon’s construction, hence the all seeing eyes of Avalokiteshvara were keeping watch on the Kingdom’s far-flung subjects.

Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm is among the largest of the monuments in the Angkor Complex. Built in approximately 1186, Ta Prohm was a Buddish Temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. Ta Prohm owned 3140 villages. It too 79365 people to maintain the temple including 18 great priest, 2740 officials, 2202 assistants and 615 dancers. Among the property belonging to the temple was a set of golden dishes weighing more than 500kgs, 35 diamonds, 40620 pearls, 4450 precious stone, 876 veils from China, 512 silk beds and 523 parasols.

Neak Pean

Located east of Preah Khan, 300m from the road, the late 12th century Buddhist temples of the Preach Neak Pean (Inter-twined Naga) was built by Jayavarman VII. Neak Pean is a large square man-made pond 70 m each side bordered by steps and surrounded by four smaller square ponds. A small circular island with a stepped base of seven laterite tiers is in the center of the large square pond. In the center of the large central pool is a circular "island" encircled by the two Nagas who intertwined tails give the temple its name. Water once flowed from the central pool into the four peripheral pools via ornamental spouts, which can still be seen in the pavilions at each axis of the pool. Small elephants sculptured in the round originally stood on the four corners. Although Neak Pean is small and a collection of five ponds, it is worth a visit for its unique features.

Banteay Srei

Banteay Srei loosely translates to ‘citadel of the women,’ but this is a modern appellation that probably refers to the delicate beauty of the carvings. Built at a time when the Khmer Empire was gaining significant power and territory, the temple was constructed by a Brahmin counselor under a powerful king, Rajendravarman and later under Jayavarman V. Banteay Srei displays some of the finest examples of classical Khmer art. The walls are densely covered with some of the most beautiful, deep and intricate carvings of any Angkorian temple. The temple's relatively small size, pink sandstone construction and ornate design give it a fairyland ambiance. The colors are best before 10:30 AM and after 2:00 PM, but there are fewer tourists in the afternoon. This temple was discovered by French archaeologists relatively late, in 1914. The temple area closes at 5:00 PM. Banteay Srei lies 38 km from Siem Reap, requiring extra travel time. Drivers usually charge a fee in addition to their normal daily charge for the trip. Banteay Srey is well worth the extra effort. Combine a visit to Banteay Srei with Banteay Samre.

Koulen Mountain

Phnom Kulen is considered by Khmer people to be the most sacred mountain in Cambodia and is a popular place of pilgrimage during weekends a festival. It played a significant role in the history of the Khmer empire, as it was from here in 802 that King Jayavarman II (802-850) proclaimed independence from Java, giving birth to modern- day Cambodia. There is a small wat at the summit of the mountain, which house a large reclining Buddha carved into the sandstone boulder upon which it is built. Nearby is an attractive waterfall in which you can swim and there are a number of carvings in the riverbed, including numerous Lingas. The views from the top are tremendous as you can see right across the forested plateau. The highest point on Phnom Kulen is 487 meters.

Beng Melea

Sprawling jungle temple covering over one square kilometer. The temple is largely overrun by vegetation and very lightly tourist, giving it an adventurous, ‘lost temple’ feel. Photographers: trees growing from the broken towers and galleries offer some of the best ‘tree in temple’ shots aside from Ta Prohm. Constructed in a distinctly Angkor Wat style under the same king that built Angkor Wat, Beng Melea preceded and may have served as a prototype of sorts for Angkor Wat. Though there are some lintel and doorway carvings, there are no bas-reliefs and the carvings are comparatively sparse. When the temple was active, the walls may have been covered, painted or had frescos. In its time, Beng Melea was at the crossroads of several major highways that ran to Angkor, Koh Ker, Preah Vihear (in northern Cambodia) and northern Vietnam. Regular admission ticket are not required but there is a separate $5 entrance fee. Beng Melea is located 63km east of town. The road is now in good condition and the trip from Siem Reap takes 1-2 hours. Graded dirt road with occasional flooding in the rainy season.

Kbal Spean

The original "River of a Thousand Lingas", Kbal Spean is and intricately carved riverbed deep in the foothills the Cambodian jungle. Lingas are phallic representations sacred to Hinduism as symbols of fertility, and hundreds of them are carved into the rock, as are several carvings of Gods and Animals above the small waterfall.  The area was only rediscovered in 1969 when French researcher Jean Boulbet was shown the carvings by a local hermit. Kbal Spean lies 50Km northeast of Siem Reap 18Km from Banteay Srei on a dirt road. It takes from 1-2 hours to get there from Siem Reap.

Phnom Bakheng

The construction of this temple mountain on Phnom Bakheng (Bakheng Hill), the first major temple to be constructed in the Angkor area, marked the move of the capital of the Khmer empire from Roluos to Angkor in the late 9th century AD. It served as King Yasovarman I's state-temple at the center of his new capital city Yasodharapura. The foundation of Bakheng is carved from the existing rock edifice rather than the laterite and earthfill of most other temples. Bakheng's hilltop location makes it the most popular sunset location in the area, offering a view of the Tonle Sap Lake and a distant Angkor Wat in the jungle. (A good photo of Angkor Wat in the distance requires at least a 400mm lens.) The temple is usually overcrowded at sunset, sometimes even completely overrun by tourists. Due to overuse and damage, the main stairway up the mountain has been closed and an alternate path to the top has been opened. Elephant rides up and down the hill are also available from about 4:00PM till sunset. $15/person up the mountain. $10 per person down the mountain.

Ak Yom

The historically important ruins of a small brick and sandstone temple in very poor condition. The earliest elements date from the pre-Angkorian 8th century. Inscriptions indicate that a temple dedicated to the Hindu ‘god of the depths’ was previously located on the same spot. Ak Yom is the earliest known example of the 'temple-mountain' architectural design formula, which was to become a primary design formula for many of the Angkorian period temples including Angkor Wat.

Baksei Chamkrong

A towering 12-meter tall brick and laterite step-pyramid. Harshavarman I began construction or perhaps dedicated statues at the site in the early 10th century. It was later improved/restored by Rajendravarman II shortly after the capital was returned to Angkor from Koh Ker. According to inscriptions on the doorway, Rajendravarman II consecrated the temple with the installation of a golden Shiva image in 947AD. It may have also served as a funerary temple. Combine with a visit to the South Gate in the morning or Phnom Bakheng in the evening. Lighting is best in the morning.

Banteay Kdei

Sprawling, largely unrestored, monastic complex in much the same style as Ta Prohm. It was originally constructed over the site of an earlier temple, and functioned as a Buddhist monastery under Jayavarman VII. As with other works of Jayavarman VII's era, it is a tightly packed architectural muddle, which likes Bayon, suffered from several changes in the plans at the time of construction. It was also built using an inferior grade of sandstone and using poor construction techniques, leading to much of the deterioration visible today. A restoration project is underway on many of the towers and corridors, and some areas are blocked off. The foundation stele of the temple has not been found so there is no record of to whom it is dedicated. The 13th century vandalism of Buddha images that is seen on many Jayavarman VII temples is quite apparent on Banteay Kdei. Combine with a visit to Srah Srang, which is just opposite the east entrance.

Banteay Prei

Small, untouristed temple near Neak Pean. Similar to Ta Som in architectural/artistic style and scale. Some of the apsara and Buddhist-themed lintel carvings are in pretty good condition. Oddly small doors and windows. Quiet, meditative spot.

Banteay Samre

Large, comparatively flat temple displaying distinctively Angkor Wat-style architecture and artistry. The temple underwent extensive restoration this century by archaeologists using the anastylosis method. Banteay Samre was constructed around the same time as Angkor Wat. The style of the towers and balustrades bear strong resemblance to the towers of Angkor Wat and even more so to Khmer temple of Phimai in Thailand. Many of the carvings are in excellent condition. Banteay Samre is a bit off the Grand Circuit, near the southeast corner of the East Baray. The trip there is a nice little 3km road excursion through villages and paddies. Combine a visit to Banteay Srey with a stop at Banteay Samre on the way back.

Baphuon

Huge temple-mountain in the heart of Angkor Thom. Largely collapsed and in ruined condition, the main temple area is undergoing extensive restoration and is not open to the public. The exterior entry gate and elevated walkway are open. Note the unique animal carvings at the walkway entrance, and the large reclining Buddha on the west side, added to the temple at a much later period.

Bat Chum

Trio of small brick towers on a platform with two surviving lintels in pretty good condition. Bat Chum is a historically unique early Buddhist temple constructed at a time when Hinduism dominated. The inscriptions on the doorways note the Buddhist dedication, praise the architect (who was also the architect for East Mebon and Pre Rup,) and admonishes local elephant handlers to keep their beasts off the dikes, like an ancient 'keep off the grass' sign. Follow unmarked dirt road between Pre Rup and Srah Srang about 1 km.

Chapel of the Hospital

102 hospitals were built throughout the empire under Jayavarman VII. The hospital itself was probably constructed of perishable materials such as wood and bamboo, which has long since disappeared, leaving only the sandstone hospital temple or ‘chapel’ for the ages. This temple and the one at Ta Prohm Kel opposite Angkor Wat offer two examples of hospital temples. Constructed of sandstone, this Chapel of the Hospital is in rough condition but some carvings are still visible. A quiet, meditative spot, easily accessible but visited by few tourists.

Chau Say Tevoda

Chau Say Tevoda is a small temple of similar design and floor plan to that of Thommanon located across the street (except for additional gopuras and library), but for years appeared as Thommanon’s neglected sister, languishing in significantly worse condition than Thommanon, which had been restored back in the 1960s. Chau Say Tevoda is now undergoing an extensive restoration project, for the moment allowing the visitor a close up look at the restoration process. The small section of the temple pictured to the left is currently in the process of being reconstructed. Chau Say Tevoda seems to stand in partnership with Thommanon, but in fact was built much later in Suryavarman II’s rule. Chau Say Tevoda displays some well-executed carvings that are in still fair condition, especially those on the eastern gopura. Though most carvings are Hindu-themed, there are also some Buddhist-themed reliefs. The eastern walkway from the temple leads to the Siem Reap River a few hundred meters away.

East Mebon

East Mebon is a large temple-mountain-like ruin, rising three levels and crowned by five towers. Jayavarman IV, a usurper to the throne, moved the capital from Angkor to Koh Ker in 928AD. Sixteen years later Rajendravarman II returned the capital to Angkor and shortly thereafter constructed East Mebon on an island in the middle of the now dry Eastern Baray. The temple is dedicated to Shiva in honor of the king’s parents. Inscriptions indicate that it was also built to help reestablish the continuity of kingship at Angkor in light of the interruption that occurred when the seat of power had been moved to Koh Ker. There seems to be some scholarly debate as to whether East Mebon should be categorized as a temple-mountain. Inscriptions record activity at the temple as early as 947AD, but East Mebon was not consecrated until 952AD.

West Mebon

Ruins of the central island temple of the West Baray. West Mebon is in poor shape, consisting primarily of a single wall displaying some carvings in fair condition. The carvings exhibit some of the first examples of carvings of animals in natural, non-mythological scenes, reminiscent of carving on Baphuon. West Mebon may have originally housed a renowned bronze Buddha statue which is now held at the National Museum in Phnom Penh. The West Baray, though ancient, is filled with water year round and has become a local recreational area. Take route #6 west from town. Turn right about 3 km past the airport turnoff. A short boat ride is necessary to visit the ruins.

Khleangs (North and South)

Rectangular sandstone buildings set opposite the Terrace of Elephants, behind the Prasat Suor Prat. ‘Kleang’ means ‘storeroom’ but it is unlikely that this was its actual function. A royal oath of allegiance carved into the doorway indicates that they may have served as reception areas or even housing for visiting noblemen and ambassadors. The North Kleang was built in wood under Rajendravarman II and then rebuilt in stone by Jayavarman V, probably before the construction of the South Kleang. It also contains the best preserved carvings. The South Kleang was never completed. The Kleangs are unremarkable upon close inspection but picturesque from a distance, standing among the Prasat Suor Prat. Best photographed in the afternoon.

Prasat Krol Ko

A small temple with a single central tower surrounded by two laterite walls. Pediments displaying the most interesting carvings at the site are on the ground along the enclosure wall. Krol Ko is comparatively untouristed, offering a peaceful respite.

Prasat Kutisvara

Three prasats in a severe state of ruin with some carvings still visible. Kutisvara is historically significant in that it was mentioned in an inscription in connection with the 9th century during the reign of Jayavarman II, the founder of the Angkor Empire. This is one of the earliest references to an Angkor area temple. The central tower displays Preah Ko style. The outer towers are in Pre Rup style. Not many tourists visit this temple and some of the drivers don't know it. Just point it out on the map. It's a bit off the main road back amongst some rice paddies. During the wet season when the paddies are full, motors can't get all the way to the temple, requiring a short but potentially wet walk from the road to the temple.

Prasat Phimeanakas

Impressive laterite and sandstone pyramid. The lack of surviving carvings leaves it artistically uninteresting, but it is the tallest scalable temple in Angkor Thom, providing a nice view from the top. The western staircase (at the back) is the most easily ascended. Located inside the ancient Royal Palace compound, Phimeanakas served as the king’s temple. Legend has it that the golden tower crowned the temple and was inhabited by a serpent, which would transform into a woman. The kings of Angkor were required to make love with the serpent every night, lest disaster befall him or the kingdom.

Prasat Bei

A set of three brick towers between Baksei Chamkrong and the moat of Angkor Thom near the South Gate. The central prasat rises 10 meters. Construction was never completed. Some lintel carvings survive. Prasat Bei literally means 'towers three.' Best lighting in the morning.

Prasat Kravan

East-facing brick towers containing unique bas-reliefs of Vishnu and Lakshmi rendered in brick - the only example of brick bas-reliefs in the Angkor area. Prasat Kravan was originally constructed by noblemen rather than a king and has a twin sister in Takeo Province south of Phnom Penh, Prasat Neang Khmau, which contained painting rather than bas-reliefs, some of which still survives. Prasat Kravan was reconstructed by archaeologists in the early 20th century. Look for modern replacement bricks labeled "CA".

Prasat Prei

Small, untouristed temple ruins in a forest setting near Neak Pean. Remains of a gopura , the central tower and halls, and the vestiges of a library and surrounding wall. Some Apsara and lintel carvings. A quiet, peaceful location.

Prasat Sour Prat

Twelve nearly identical laterite and sandstone towers that stand opposite and parallel to the Terrace of the Elephants. The artistic and architectural style of the towers is somewhat unique, defying easy classification and dating. Construction may have begun under Jayavarman VII, but the towers do not display the classic Bayon-style characteristics. It has been argued that they may be post-Bayon or perhaps much earlier, as early the 11th century. The original function of the towers is a matter of debate but in the 13th century classic, "Customs of Cambodia," Chinese emissary to Angkor, Zhou Daguan, gives a romantic but dubious first hand account of their function. He wrote that the towers were used to settle legal disputes and matters of criminal justice. The belligerent parties were kept in the towers for a few days. The one to emerge in ill health was declared the loser, guilty by divine decree. Best photographed in the late afternoon.

Prasat Top (East)

Architecturally unimpressive but historically important small tower. Also known as 'Monument 487' and 'Mangalartha' in honor of a powerful monk, Jayamangalartha, who was the son of one of Jayavarman VII’s Brahman monks. Originally commissioned by Jayavarman VII, it was not consecrated until 1295AD, decades after his death. This temple was the final Brahmanic temple built in the Angkor area, marking the end of an era. Constructed in the historically hazy period of Hindu resurgence after the death of Jayavarman VII.

Prasat Top (West)

Small, ruined towers standing in an quiet section of Angkor Thom. Inscriptions indicate that the site was used as early as the 9th century, but the present structure is post Angkorian. The materials from the 10th and 11th were reused for the current structure which was probably assembled in the late 13th century. The few carvings that still exist are Buddhist some dating as late as the 17th century.

Pre Rup

Architecturally and artistically superior temple-mountain. Beautifully carved false doors on upper level, as well as an excellent view of the surrounding countryside. Richly detailed, well-preserved carvings. Traditionally believed to be a funerary temple, but in fact the state temple of Rajendravarman II. Historically important in that it was the second temple built after the capital was returned to Angkor from Koh Ker after a period of political upheaval. The artistically similar East Mebon was the first to be constructed after the return to Angkor, less than a decade earlier.

Preah Khan

Preah Khan is a huge, highly explorable monastic complex. Full of carvings, passages and photo opportunities. It originally served as a Buddhist monastery and school, engaging over 1000 monks. For a short period it was also the residence of King Jayavarman VII during the reconstruction of his permanent home in Angkor Thom. Preah Khan means 'sacred sword.’ In harmony with the architecturally similar Ta Prohm, which was dedicated to Jayavarman VII's mother, Preah Khan is dedicated to his father. Features of note: like most of Jayavarman VII's monuments, the Buddha images were vandalized in the later Hindu resurgence. Some Buddha carvings in the central corridor have been crudely carved over with Bodhisattvas, and in a couple of odd cases, a lotus flower and a linga. Also note the cylindrical columns on the building west of the main temple. It is one of the only examples of round columns and may be from a later period.

Preah Palilay

Picturesque sandstone and laterite tower in a cool, shaded forest setting, in the area behind the Terrace of the Leper King. The central tower is in rough condition but the eastern gopura displays some particularly nice Buddhist-themed carvings. The date of construction is a matter of some debate. Traditionally dated to the late 12th/early 13th century, but the Theravadan Buddhist themes of some of the carvings and some architectural features suggest a construction date in the late 13th or 14th century. The tower was rebuilt and modified in the post-Bayon period.

Preah Pithu

Five small temples set in a quiet area. One of the temples is Buddhist and may date from the 14th century. The temples are in rough shape but there are interesting carved lintels scattered on the ground. Located in central Angkor Thom but not as touristed as the other temples in the area. Peaceful little jungle area behind the group.

Spean Thma

‘Spean Thma’ literally translates to 'Stone Bridge'. Remnants of an ancient bridge over the Siem Reap River. Reconstructed several times over the centuries. As it currently stands the bridge is of post-Angkorian construction, employing carved stone from earlier temples. It sits just to the side of the river, indicating how much the course of the river has shifted over the years, possibly in part due to the obstruction and sediment build up caused by the bridge.

Srah Srang

Picturesque baray opposite the east entrance of Banteay Kdei. Originally constructed by the same architect that built Pre Rup. Remodeled in the 12th century as part of Jayavarman VII's massive building campaign. A multi-tiered landing platform on the west edge of the baray is adorned with naga balustrades and guardian lions. The very sparse remains of an island temple can be seen poking out of the middle of the lake during the dry season when the water is low. Srah Srang offers a pleasant, much less touristed sunrise alternative to Angkor Wat.

Ta Keo

Towering but plainly decorated temple-mountain dedicated to Shiva. Known in its time as ‘the mountain with golden peaks’. The first to be constructed wholly of sandstone, this temple employing huge sandstone blocks. Constructed under three kings, begun by Jayavarman V as his state-temple and continued under Jayaviravarman and Suryavarman I. When Jayavarman V first constructed Ta Keo, he part ways with previous kings, constructing his state temple outside of his main capital area. Construction on Ta Keo seems to have stopped particularly early in the decoration phase as evidenced by the lack of carvings. Ta Keo is well worth a visit, but if you are pressed for time, see Pre Rup instead.

Ta Nei

Small (55m x 47m), semi-ruined, untouristed jungle temple reminiscent of Ta Som, and displaying classic Jayavarman VII artistry. Some of the apsara and lintel carvings are in pretty good condition. In much rougher shape than most of the temples on the main tour circuit. The primary road to Ta Nei from where it meets the Grand Circuit road near the southeast corner of Ta Keo was closed on last inspection. To get to Ta Nei, park at the end of the road near Ta Keo and walk the dirt road about 1km to Ta Nei, or by motorcycle, follow unmarked dirt road from just outside the Victory Gate of Angkor Thom to the 'French Dam.' Cross the dam and proceed 200m up a small path.

Ta Prohm Kel

A single small sandstone tower located opposite Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm Kel is the ruin of the temple or ‘chapel’ of one of the 102 hospitals built by Jayavarman VII throughout the kingdom. Of very similar design and state of ruin to the Chapel of the Hospital near Ta Keo. The Buddhist-themed carving on the northern pediment is in fair condition and displays marks of vandalism characteristic of the 13th century Hindu resurgence. The coarsely rendered carvings on the interior of the temple are probably from a much latter period.

Ta Som

Small, classic Bayon-style monastic complex consisting of a relatively flat enclosure, face tower gopuras and cruciform interior sanctuaries much like a miniature version of Ta Prohm. Many of the carvings are in good condition and display particularly fine execution for late 12th century works. Take note of the devata carvings which show an uncommon individuality. A huge tree grows from the top of the eastern gopura. It is destroying the gate but it is a photo classic. Best photographed in the afternoon. Ta Som is the most distant temple on the Grand Circuit.

Tep Pranam

A long walkway with a Buddha figure at the far end. Tep Pranam was originally a Buddhist shrine in the 9th century under Yasovarman I, the king that moved the capital to Angkor. It was expanded over the years with 12th century balustrades, 13th century lions and significant post-Angkorian modifications and additions. The Buddha statue at the western end is made from reused material. It is unclear how long that particular Buddha has been there.

Terrace of the Elephant

Terrace of the Elephants is an impressive, two and a half-meter tall, 300 meter long terrace wall adorned with carved elephants and garudas that spans the heart of Angkor Thom in front of Baphuon, Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace area. The northern section of the wall displays some particularly fine sculpture including the five headed horse and scenes of warriors and dancers. Constructed in part by Jayavarman VII and extended by his successor. The wall faces east so the best lighting for photography before noon. The Terrace of the Leper King is at the north end of the Terrace of the Elephants.

Terrace of the Leper King

A double terrace wall at the north end of the Terrace of Elephants with deeply carved nagas, demons and other mythological beings. The inner wall is an earlier version of the outer wall that was covered at the time the outer wall was added. The inner wall was excavated by French archaeologists in the late 1990s. The terrace was named for the statue of the ‘Leper King’ that sits on top. Why the statue is known as the 'leper king' is a matter of debate. Some argue that when the statue was found, its lichen-eaten condition gave it the appearance of leprosy. Others have argued that it is a statue of the leper king of Khmer legend, or that the condition of the statue inspired its connection to the legend. The model for the statue is also a matter of debate. Suggestions include a couple of different Hindu gods, and the Khmer kings Yasovarman I and Jayavarman VII. Recent scholarship favors a combination of Jayavarman VII and Buddha. The statue of the leper king on display at the terrace is a replica. The original resides in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

Thma Bay Kaek

The spare remains of a brick prasat, now disappeared, leaving only a doorframe, lintel and a bit of the terrace. A sacred relic of five gold leaves, one bearing the image of Nandi (Shiva’s bull), was discovered at this site. Combine with visit to Prasat Bei and Baksei Chamkrong.

Prasat Thommanon

Small, attractive temple in very good condition, built at the same time as Angkor Wat. The Angkor Wat style is most easily seen in the style of the towers and carved devatas. Thommanon seems to stand in conjunction with Chau Say Tevoda across the street, but was built decades earlier. Thommanon is currently in much better condition than Chau Say Tevoda, in part because archaeologists heavily restored it in the 1960's. But even before restoration, Thommanon was in better shape than Chau Say Tevoda due in part to the lack of the stone-enclosed wood beams in Thommanon’s super-structure that were used in Chau Say Tevoda’s construction. Many of Thommanon’s carvings are in excellent condition. The colors of the age stained sandstone against the jungle are very photogenic, particularly in the wet season.

Wat Atwea

Though lacking carvings, this laterite and sandstone temple is still in relatively good condition. It bears no inscriptions to allow precise dating but seems to have been constructed employing Angkor Wat architectural style, which is particularly apparent in the towers, suggestive of late 11th century construction. This temple seems to have been left unfinished as evidenced in part by the lack of carvings. Some of the apsara carvings were abandoned half finished. It is next to an active wat of the same name. Because it is well outside the regular temple complex, it is relatively untouristed. Located 7km south of town, 200m off the main road from town to the Tonle Sap. Look for a white concrete arch/sign at the turnoff to the wat. For a countryside sunset, follow the dirt road for a kilometer or two past the wat. Palm trees and small huts lining the road open to rice paddies and Phnom Krom on the horizon.

West Baray

West Baray is about 15 minutes drive to the west of Siem Reap town. A ‘Baray’ is a water reservoir – an area of land where dikes have been raised to catch and hold water. Beginning in the 9th century, the construction of massive Barays and other such grand projects became one of the marks of Angkorian Kingship. There are four major Barays in the Park area. When the Barays were constructed, an island temple was set at the center of each. The first major Baray to be constructed was Indratataka by King Yasovarman I, measuring 3.8 km x 880 meters and completed in 889 AD when the capital was still at Hariharalaya near Rolous. The Roluos Group temple Lolei sat on an island in the middle of Indratataka. Construction of the second major baray, the East Baray (Yashodharatataka,) began almost immediately after the first. At 7.8km x 880m it was almost five times larger than the Indratataka. Almost 50 years later, the temple East Mebon was constructed on an island in the center. The third and largest baray(8km x 2.2km) is the West Baray built in the early 11th century. Unlike the other barays, the West Barays is still partially filled, creating god sized lake. The temple ruins of West Mebon sit on an artificial island at the center of the baray (requiring a short boat ride to visit.) The last baray (Jayatataka) was constructed by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. It is considered to be the baray of Preah Khan though it is Neak Pean that actually sits at the center. The function of baray is a matter of academic debate. A recent study has argued that the barays did not serve an agricultural purpose but were built and maintained solely for political/religious reasons. Conventional wisdom has it that the barays were part of a giant water used to irrigate the rice paddies and provided water for year round cultivation, though they certainly served a political and religious function as well.

Rolous Group

The Roluos Group is a collection of monuments representing the remains of Hariharalaya, the first major capital of the Angkorian-era Khmer Empire. It has become known as the ‘Roluos Group’ due to its proximity to the modern town of Roluos. The ancient capital was named for Hari-Hara, a synthesis of the Hindu gods Shiva and Vishnu. Though there was an existing settlement in the area before the rise of Angkor, Hariharalaya was established as a capital city by Jayavarman II and served as the Khmer capital for over 70 years under four successive kings. Setting the pattern for the next four centuries, the first great Khmer temples (Bakong, Preah Ko, Lolei) and baray (reservoir) were constructed at Hariharalaya. The last king at Hariharalaya, Yasovarman I, built the first major temple at Angkor, Phnom Bakheng, and moved the capital to the Bakheng area in 905 C.E. With the exception of a 20 year interruption in the 10th century, the capital would remain at Angkor until 1422 C.E., 12km southeast of Siem Reap.

Bakong

The most impressive member of the Roluos Group, sitting at the center of the first Angkorian capital, Hariharalaya. Bakong stands 15 meters tall and is 650x850m at the outer wall. Constructed by the third Angkorian-era king as his state-temple, Bakong represents the first application of the temple-mountain architectural formula on a grand scale and set the architectural tone for the next 400 years. The temple displays a very early use of stone rather than brick. Though begun by Indravarman I, Bakong received additions and was expanded by later kings. The uppermost section and tower may have been added as late as the 12th century AD. Some of the lintel carvings, particularly on the outer towers, are in very good shape. Picturesque moat and vegetation surround Bakong.

Preah Ko

Six towers displaying set on a platform, all beautifully preserved carvings. Originally surrounded by walls and gopuras of which only vestiges remain. Preah Ko was one of the first major temples of the empire at the early Khmer capital of Hariharalaya. Preah Ko (Sacred Bull) derives its name from the statues of bulls at the front of the central towers.

Lolei

Ruins of an island-temple built in the middle of a now dry baray, Indratataka, the first large-scale baray constructed by a Khmer king. Lolei consists of four brick towers on a double laterite platform. It was the last major temple built at Roluos before Yasovarman I moved the capital to the Angkor area. Though the towers are in poor condition, there are some lintel carvings in very good condition displaying the distinctively detailed Preah Ko style. An active pagoda has been built amongst the ruins. Of the Roluos Group ruins, allocate the least time Lolei.

Koh Ker Temple

Koh Ker is located 130km north-east of Siem Reap. It is the site of the capital of Jayavarman IV. The main ruins at Koh Ker consist of a 7-tier pyramid that looks quite out of place in the Cambodian jungle. The temple is currently accessed via a vertiginous wooden ladder and narrow, sloping steps. The climb is worth the effort because of the views from the summit.
The surrounding land was irrigated by a Baray similar to those at Angkor but smaller in size. Koh Ker was built in the 10th century and dedicated to Shiva. It receives very few visitors on account of its remoteness and the awful condition of the local roads. Consider contacting a tour guide that specializes in this area or hiring a sturdy dirt-bike. There is a small, friendly restaurant awaiting hardy visitors who brave this trip.

Phnom Krom

Three towers, dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma respectively. The ruins are in relatively poor condition, and sit next to an active pagoda on top of a hill. Wonderful view of the Tonle Sap Lake and the surrounding countryside. It is a very nice 15 km countryside drive from Siem Reap, and an exposed, 20-30 minute walk to the top. A visit to Phnom Krom is sometimes combined with a boat on the Tonle Sap Lake.

Tonle Sap Lake

Cambodia's Great Lake, the Boeung Tonle Sap (Tonle Sap Lake) is the most prominent feature on the map of Cambodia - a huge dumbbell-shaped body of water stretching across the northwest section of the country. In the wet season, the Tonle Sap Lake is one of the largest freshwater lakes in Asia, swelling to an expansive 12,000 km2. During the dry half of the year the Lake shrinks to as small as 2500 km2, draining into the Tonle Sap River, which meanders southeast, eventually merging with the Mekong River at the 'Chaktomuk' confluence of rivers opposite Phnom Penh. But during the wet season a unique hydrologic phenomenon causes the river to reverse direction, filling the lake instead of draining it. The engine of this phenomenon is the Mekong River, which becomes bloated with snow melt and runoff from the monsoon rains in the wet season. The swollen Mekong backs up into the Tonle Sap River at the point where the rivers meet at the 'Chaktomuk' confluence, forcing the waters of the Tonle Sap River back upriver into the lake. The inflow expands the surface area of lake more than five-fold, inundating the surrounding forested floodplain and supporting an extraordinarily rich and diverse eco-system. More than 100 varieties of waterbirds including several threatened and endangered species, over 200 species of fish, as well as crocodiles, turtles, macaques, otter and other wildlife inhabit the inundated mangrove forests. The Lake is also an important commercial resource, providing more than half of the fish consumed in Cambodia. In harmony with the specialized ecosystems, the human occupations at the edges of the lake is similarly distinctive - floating villages, towering stilted houses, huge fish traps, and an economy and way of life deeply intertwined with the lake, the fish, the wildlife and the cycles of rising and falling waters.
The lake sits only about 15 km south of Siem Reap town. If you take the ferry between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap you will cross the lake and dock at the village of Chong Khneas. There are several ways to see the culture and wildlife of the lake area depending on the amount of time you have and your interest.

Chong Khneas

Chong Khneas is the floating village at the edge of the lake closest and most accessible to Siem Reap. If you want a relatively quick and easy look at the Tonle Sap, boat tours of Chong Khneas are available, departing from the Chong Khneas boat docks all day long. Take a Tuk Tuk or Taxi about 11-15km from Siem Reap to the boat docks where there are always boats waiting for passengers. A two-hour boat trip through the floating village runs US$ 15/pax and the boats may carry as many as 10-15 people. The boatman will probably point out the differing Khmer and Vietnamese floating households and the floating Markets, Clinics, Schools and other boatloads of tourists. Chong Khneas, while interesting, is over-tourist and is not as picturesque and 'unspoiled' as floating villages further from Siem Reap. The boat trip usually includes two stops: one at a touristy floating 'fish and bird exhibition' with a souvenir and snack shop, and the other at the very highly recommended Gecko Environment Centre, which offers displays and information introducing the ecology and biodiversity of the lake area.

Prek Toal

The 'Bird Sanctuary' at the Prek Toal core area of the Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve has been called "the single most important breeding ground in Southeast Asia for globally threatened large waterbirds." The Biosphere covers 31,282 hectares at the northwest tip of the Tonle Sap Lake and plays host to species including Greater and Lesser Adjuncts, Black-headed Ibis, Painted Stork, Milky Stork, Spot-billed Pelican, Grey-Headed Fish Eagle and many more species. Of the three Biosphere core areas on the Tonle Sap Lake, Prek Toal is the most accessible from Siem Reap and the most popular with birdwatchers. The best time of year for viewing is the dry season when flocks of migratory birds congregate at Prek Toal. As the dry season progresses and the water recedes, the number of birds increases but the travel to some of the important viewing areas becomes more difficult.

Kampong Phluk

Kampong Phluk is a cluster of three villages of stilted houses built within the floodplain of the Tonle Sap about 16 km southeast of Siem Reap. The villages are primarily Khmer and have about 3000 inhabitants between them. Flooded mangrove forest surrounds the area and is home to a variety of wildlife including crab-eating macaques. During the dry season when the lake is low, the buildings in the villages seem to soar atop their 6-meter stilts exposed by the lack of water. At this time of year many of the villagers move out onto the lake and build temporary stilted houses. In the wet season when water level rises again, the villagers move back to their permanent houses on the floodplain, the stilts now hidden under the water. Kampong Phluk's economy is, as one might expect, based in fishing, primary in shrimp harvesting.
Kampong Phluk sees comparatively few foreign visitors and offers a close look at the submerged forest and lakeside village life as yet unperturbed by tourism. The area can be reached by boat from the Chong Khneas or by a combination of road and boat. Make arrangements through your guesthouse of tour operator, or charter a boat at the Chong Khneas docks. By road/boat, take a Car or Tuk Tuk to Roluos village just off Route #6 east of Siem Reap and the take a boat through the flooded forest the rest of the way to the village. During the dry season the road is clear and you can drive all of the way to the village.

Kampong Khleang

Kampong Khleang is located on the northern lake-edge about 35 km east of Siem Reap town, more remote and less tourist than Kampong Phluk. Visitors to Kampong Khleang during the dry season are universally awestruck by the forest of stilted houses rising up to 10 meters in the air. In the wet season the waters rise to within one or two meters of the buildings. Like Kampong Phluk, Kampong Khleang is a permanent community within the floodplain of the Lake, with an economy based in fishing and surrounded by flooded forest. But Kampong Khleang is significantly larger with near 10 times the population of Kampong Phluk, making it the largest community on the Lake.
The area can be reached by boat from the Chong Khneas docks or by a combination of road to Domdek on Route #6 and then boat to the village, the best method depending on the time of year. During the dry season, boats cannot get all of the way to the main villages. Consult your guesthouse or tour operator about current conditions. Many tour operators have very little experience in this area so it is best to consult with adventure tour operators and guesthouses that specialize in this area. To get there yourself, either charter a boat from Chong Khneas or take Car or Tuk Tuk to Domdek village on Route #6 east of Siem Reap, turn south and continue to the water's edge where boats wait to ferry passengers into the village. During the dry season the road is clear and you can take a Car or Tuk Tuk all of the way to the village.)

Tonle Sap Exhibition in Siem Reap

The Exhibition on the Khmer Heritage is sponsored by Krousar Thmei, (which means "New Family" - a Cambodia-based NGO assisting children in Cambodia). The current exhibition is dedicated to the Tonle Sap Lake and the people, culture and environment of the area. The displays are actually quite informative and include maps, photos, models of traditional houses, boats and fishing implements with written explanations in French, English and Khmer. The highlight of the exhibit is a working scale model of the Tonle Sap Lake. There are also exhibits on the work of Krousar Thmey. Open everyday. Closed noon till 2:00pm. Admission is free, donations accepted. Located on the road to Angkor Wat just past the Jayavarman VII hospital.

Angkor Wat in Miniature

Artist and master craftsman Dy Proeung has created several beautiful, hand carved and cast sandstone and concrete miniatures of Angkor Wat, Bayon, Ban-teay Srey and other Angkorian era temples and figures. Visit his workshop/display yard to view his carvings and castings and to see the artist at work. Mr. Dy Proeung has received an award of recognition for his works from the former King of Cambodia, Norodom Sihanouk. Located just off of the river road, north of the National Road # 6 near the center of town.

Balloon Rides

Unique new addition to the Angkor area. Take a tethered helium balloon ride 200 meters straight up for an amazing aerial view of Angkor Wat, Phnom Bakheng, West Baray and other ruins amongst the surrounding jungle and rice paddies. Bring a camera and binoculars if you have them. The big, yellow balloon is based on the road from the airport to Angkor Wat, about a kilometer from the front gates of Angkor Wat.

Butterfly Garden

Behind a garden wall lays an oasis of peace.  Inside, 1,500 Angkorean butterflies frolic among 500 flowering plants and fruiting trees at Butterflies Garden Restaurant.  Those who enter will hear the gentle sounds of traditional music while enjoying creative tropical cuisine and tall, refreshing drinks. Creative tropical cuisine, including unique Khmer specialties, is served at breakfast, lunch and dinner. An array of fresh juices, shakes, beer, wine and cocktails is also available. Butterflies Garden Restaurant specializes in group events of all kinds from corporate retreats to children's Birthday Parties.

Cambodian Cultural Village

A unique, sprawling new cultural attraction in Siem Reap, intended to introduce the visitor to Cambodian culture and history. Wax museum with scenes and figures from history. Fascinating 1/20th scale models of sites such as Phsar Thmey and the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh and the hills and temples of Oudong. Full scale models of a variety of Cambodian architectural types, including different styles of huts and homes, hill tribe houses, pagoda and mosque. Live shows, traditional dance performances and music. Traditional Khmer wedding show twice per day.

Countryside Tours

Those enchanted by rice paddies and water buffalos, stilted houses and little villages, will find a tour through the Cambodian countryside to be a scenic, bucolic, cultural experience. The road from Siem Reap to the Tonle Sap south of town is picturesque, following the Siem Reap River past traditional Khmer houses, pagodas, water wheels and more. For more extensive tours consult a travel agent or tour operator.

Elephant Rides

During the day, elephants await customers near Bayon or at the South Gate of Angkor Thom. In the evenings, elephants are stationed at the base of Phnom Bakheng, ready to transport riders up the hill for sunset.

Golf

Phokeethra Country Club Siem Reap’s first international golf club. 18-hole, 72 par golf course spread over 155 hectares and stretching 6.53 kms. A combination of paspulum grasses allows for year round golf. Putting green, pitching area, driving range, pro-shop and restaurant. Managed by Sofitel Royal Angkor Golf & Spa Resort. Located along the National Road # 6 in Pouk district 16 kilometers from town.

Helicopter Rides

Helicopter rides offer an absolutely amazing and completely unique view of the temples. Helicopters Cambodia is a New Zealand owned operation based at the Siem Reap airport, offering scenic flights around the Angkor temples as well as specialized temple tours, aerial filming, photography, charters and more. More extensive scenic packages and flights to distant temples available. Office located on Hup Guan Street behind the Center Market.

Horseback Riding

The Happy Ranch International standard horse ranch and riding school offering trail rides and riding lessons for adults and children. Private and group lessons available. Western instructor. English and Western style. See map. Follow road from Sivatha.

Mine Museum

Years of war have brought Cambodia one of the worst landmine problems in the world. The museum contains a variety of defused mines, bombs and other ordinance, as well as a mock minefield where you can test your demining skills. The creator and proprietor of the museum, Akira, worked as a deminer in recent years. He is often there to provide personal tours and tell of his experiences as a young soldier. Relevant and educational. 7AM-6PM. Donations accepted. Turn off the road to Angkor Wat at the Krousar Thmey sign, go 750 meters, turn left and then another 750 meters.

Old Market

The Old Market (Phsar Chas) and the Old Market area are 'must sees' when visiting Siem Reap. Of the various traditional markets in the Siem Reap area, the Old Market is the most popular with tourists and visitors, offering the greatest selection of souvenirs and curios of any of the traditional markets. And the area around the Old Market is burgeoning with shops, galleries, restaurants, bars, massage and more. The Old Market is located on the river at the south end of the Old French Quarter. During the day and into the early evening the south side of the market near the river is alive with souvenir and silk vendors hawking a wide variety of Cambodian handicrafts, textiles, statues and curios. The Old Market is also a good place to pick up post cards, tee-shirts and other small items if you haven't already bought them from the vendors at the temples. The north half of the market caters primarily to the locals, vending fruit, vegetables, meats, clothes, appliances and such. A number of inexpensive food stalls line the northern edge, serving local fare in interesting though sometimes hygienically challenged conditions. The Old Market closes at sunset, but many of the souvenir vendors in south section of the market stay open past 8PM.

Pub Street

While the Old Market offers the greatest variety of souvenirs, the streets in the area around the market harbor several little galleries and boutiques, each with its own particular style, collection, art or specialty. The boutiques and galleries often offer higher quality, more select items, as well as more comfortable, often air-conditioned shopping venues. See page 55 for more information on boutiques and galleries. Other conveniences in the Old Market area include dozens of restaurants and pubs, especially along Pub Street, several travel agents and Internet shops, a couple of bookstores and several roving booksellers, convenience stores, banks and ATMs, and several reflexology/massage shops.
After the sun goes down, the focus shifts a block or two east of the Old Market to 'Pub Street,' so named for the numerous and varied restaurants and pubs that line the street from one end to the other. You can always find Khmer, Thai, French, Vietnamese, Indian, Italian and a variety of other international foods on at the 'Pub Street' restaurants. Most of the bars are open all day but don’t really get going until around 5PM as people return from the temples and come to take advantage of the various happy hour deals. In the later evening the street is blocked to motor traffic, allowing pedestrians to stroll easily. It's then that Pub Street really comes alive as the restaurants move their tables to the curbside and the bars crank up the music. The whole 'Pub Street' area is the center of nightlife in Siem Reap these days with most places staying open until at least midnight and few until near dawn. 'Pub Street Alley,' running parallel about a half of a block over, offers a somewhat different atmosphere - a quaint, shaded, tranquil retreat from the Pub Street crowds. The alley is a narrow lane lined with little galleries, shops, bars, cafés and Khmer restaurants.

Crocodile Farm

Hundreds of crocodiles in several pens separated by age. Also on display are various small animals ( e.g gibbon, deer, lizards ) in abysmally little wire cage. Open 07.00 hours- 18.00 hours. Located one Kilometer south to town.

Angkor Night Market

The Angkor Night Market organization team is pleased to invite you to participate at the first time night market established in Cambodia. Located in the heart of Siem Reap, the Angkor Night Market is designed to welcome visitors from all around the world from afternoon until late night. Surrounded by a Botanic garden, this public entertainment area provides an exceptional venue for commercial activities. The Island Bar, jungle atmosphere, entertainment activities and special events will make it a major attraction in town.

Les Artisans D' Angkor Chantiers-Ecoles

A complete visit of Arts and school will take you through the various training and production workshops of the Chantiers-Ecoles. Discover the traditional techniques used for wood sculpting, stone carving, lacquer work, polychromy and stone patina work, with the explanations of our experienced guides.

Silk Farm

Silk Farm is located in Phouk Village and about 20 minutes drive from Siem Reap trown to the west by National Road # 6. Set aside a couple of hours to visit the National Silk Center. The silk farm is a fascinating farm/workshop where you can see the entire silk creation process including growing the food for the silk worms, breeding the worms, silk extraction, spinning and refinement, traditional ikat dying, pattern creation, and looming. It’s a very interesting and educational tour well worth the time. Retail souvenir shop from Artisans d’Angkor. offering fine silks and silk products made in rural workshops on site.

Angkor Hospital for Children

In the middle of the town, near the river. Foreign and Cambodian doctors. Pediatric hospital and clinical training site for Cambodian doctors, nurses and paramedical personnel. Provides medical consultation and emergency care for expats and tourists. Blood donors always welcome.

Beatocello and Jayavarman VII Children’s Hospital

Dr. Beat Richner plays Bach on the cello and speaks about the activities of his children’s hospitals (Jayavarman VII in Siem Reap, Kantha Bopha 1 and 2 in Phnom Penh) every Friday and Saturday evening at 7:15PM. Performances are held at the Jayavarman VII Hospital, located on the road to Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. Dr. Richner provides an entertaining and worthy Saturday evening. The hospital welcomes both monetary and blood donations.

Pagodas & Shrines

Buddhist pagodas are the traditional seat of Khmer culture. Siem Reap, like many Cambodian towns, is a collection of villages, which grew around individual pagodas, later coalescing into the town. To get a true feel for Cambodia, a visit to at least one pagoda is a must.

Shrine to Preah Ang Check – Preah Ang Chorm

Shrine to Preah Ang Chek & Preah Ang Chorm Of particular importance to the locals is the small shrine in front of the Grand Hotel D’Angkor containing two standing Buddhas of the names Preah Ang Chek (taller) and Preah Ang Chorm (shorter). They are surrounded by stories of power and indestructibility. Visitors are welcome to make offerings and take photos. The reverence of local pilgrims is palpable.

Shrine to Yay Tep

Shrine to Ya Tep Under a huge tree in the traffic circle in front of the royal residence is a statue of Ya Tep, a neak-ta. Neak-ta are powerful spirits connected to a particular area of land. Ya Tep is local to Siem Reap and is said to help bring protection (and winning lottery numbers) to the faithful. Offerings of chicken skins can often be seen around the shrine.

Wat Bo

Wat Bo Founded in the 18th century. A large, highly respected pagoda. Like the Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh, the vihear of Wat Bo contains very unique wall paintings of the Reamker that are said to be late 19th century. Look for the ordinary-life market scenes such as an opium smoking Chinese merchant, the colonial era French officer at the market and the French soldiers attending a traditional dance performance. Also of interest is the large collection of Buddha statues located behind the main Buddha.

Wat Keseram

Wat Keseram “Pagoda of the Cornflower Petals”. Pastoral setting and extensive, detailed collection of the life of Buddha on the interior of the vihear make this one of the more interesting wats to visit. The date of establishment is unclear, but most agree that the vihear was constructed in the early 1970’s.

Wat Preah Promh Rath

Wat Preah Prohm Rath An unspectacular but idyllically situated wat on the river in the center of town. Founded in 1915, the main vihear was constructed in 1945. Oddly enough, the wat grounds hold two large cannons said to have belonged to the larger-than-life 20th century warlord, Dap Chhoun. 

Wat Thmei

Wat Thmei (New Wat) The wat contains a unique glass-walled stupa containing the bones of victims of the Khmer Rouge. Some of the bones were recovered from a nearby well while others are the remains of soldiers who died on a nearby battlefield. 500m west of the road to Angkor about 1.5km north of town.